Sunday, May 5, 2013

White Asparagus - Spargel


Spargel is here! In Germany, from late April to mid June, it's asparagus season. Everyone eagerly anticipates the spargel menus that appear at every restaurant. Asparagus cream soup. Asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Asparagus Risotto. Yum. (I just realized all those dishes also have cream and butter in them. Hmm.)

This year, the cold weather meant the season was delayed. But the day has finally arrived. The farmers' market has asparagus piled high. Many stands have electric spargel peelers - lathe-like machines that will peel off the stringy, woody outer layer. Tetrapaks of hollandaise sauce are strategically placed next to the bins of asparagus. The shops sell spargel tongs and plates. Everyone loves spargel. 

Germans are especially fond of the white asparagus - something we don't have in Vancouver. The shoots are covered with soil as they grow; without exposure to sunlight they don't turn green.

The primo white asparagus is white, straight and almost half an inch thick. Prices vary depending on a magic, yet legislated, combination of colour, straightness and circumference.

They are also surprisingly fragile so woe betide any soul who dares handle the stalks themselves at the market - wait for the seller to pick them out for you. Seriously. Wait. You don't want to be chastised by the merchant while the other customers tsk disdainfully.

Preparation is simple, but they are delicate, so hold the stalks carefully in one hand while you gently peel the outer layer off with a potato peeler. Be gentle, but make sure you remove all the outer layer or it will be too chewy to eat. Peel from tip to end, and trim at least 1/4 inch off the bottom.


Put them in a pan of water with a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of sugar and a tablespoon of butter.



Steam or lightly boil for about 8 minutes. They should be soft but not mushy. Drain and serve.



You can add parmesan and olive oil or lemon juice, or just plain pepper. Or a creamy sauce if you want an authentic German experience.

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